Surf Is Where You Find It

Filename: surf-is-where-you-find-it.pdf
ISBN: 9781938340253
Release Date: 2015-04-17
Number of pages: 240
Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia

Download and read online Surf Is Where You Find It in PDF and EPUB Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.


Surf Is Where You Find It

Filename: surf-is-where-you-find-it.pdf
ISBN: 9781938340048
Release Date: 2013-10-06
Number of pages: 240
Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia

Download and read online Surf Is Where You Find It in PDF and EPUB Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.


Surf Shack

Filename: surf-shack.pdf
ISBN: 9780451496065
Release Date: 2017-04-11
Number of pages: 272
Author: Nina Freudenberger
Publisher: Clarkson Potter

Download and read online Surf Shack in PDF and EPUB "Cabin porn goes coastal in Nina Freudenberger’s Surf Shack” [Vanity Fair], and here are bungalows, trailers, cabins, and beach homes where surfers retreat after a day on the waves. Peek inside the homes of longtime enthusiasts and dedicated newcomers that reflect not just a sport or passion, but also a way of life. Blake and Heather Mycoskie of TOMS, hotelier Sean MacPherson, Gypset author Julia Chaplin, and others have set up their spaces to embrace a casual ease and be the break between the waves. With vibrant photographs of design details and bright beaches—from Malibu to the Rockaways, from Japan to Australia—this book captures the soulful milieu of a lifestyle we all aspire to. "Surfers are a breed onto themselves and their homes . . . Nina Freudenberger has taken a good look at not only a number of these vastly different abodes but also a quick glimpse into the particular and even peculiar lives that are lived there. Because after all, to a surfer at least, surfing is the only life." –Gerry Lopez, renowned surfer, innovator, and author of Surf is Where You Find It


Barbarian Days

Filename: barbarian-days.pdf
ISBN: 9780698163744
Release Date: 2015-07-21
Number of pages: 384
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin

Download and read online Barbarian Days in PDF and EPUB **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.


Surf is where you find it

Filename: surf-is-where-you-find-it.pdf
ISBN: 490833501X
Release Date: 2016
Number of pages: 442
Author:
Publisher:

Download and read online Surf is where you find it in PDF and EPUB


Caught Inside

Filename: caught-inside.pdf
ISBN: 0865475091
Release Date: 1997-04-10
Number of pages: 256
Author: Daniel Duane
Publisher: Macmillan

Download and read online Caught Inside in PDF and EPUB Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing


Let My People Go Surfing

Filename: let-my-people-go-surfing.pdf
ISBN: 9781101992531
Release Date: 2016-09-06
Number of pages: 272
Author: Yvon Chouinard
Publisher: Penguin

Download and read online Let My People Go Surfing in PDF and EPUB In this newly revised 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard--legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.--shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. "This is the story of an attempt to do more than change a single corporation--it is an attempt to challenge the culture of consumption tat is at the hear of the global ecological crisis." --From the Foreword by Naomi Klein, bestselling author of This Changes Everything From the Trade Paperback edition.


Saltwater Buddha

Filename: saltwater-buddha.pdf
ISBN: 9780861719983
Release Date: 2009-04-10
Number of pages: 200
Author: Jaimal Yogis
Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Download and read online Saltwater Buddha in PDF and EPUB Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.


Waterman

Filename: waterman.pdf
ISBN: 9780803254770
Release Date: 2015-10
Number of pages: 336
Author: David Davis
Publisher: U of Nebraska Press

Download and read online Waterman in PDF and EPUB Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America’s first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original “human fish” set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of “surf-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku’s connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting “Ambassador of Aloha” afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was “Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here.” In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water.


Surfing with Sartre

Filename: surfing-with-sartre.pdf
ISBN: 9780385540742
Release Date: 2017-08-08
Number of pages: 352
Author: Aaron James
Publisher: Doubleday

Download and read online Surfing with Sartre in PDF and EPUB From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.


Surf Survival

Filename: surf-survival.pdf
ISBN: 9781626369689
Release Date: 2013-12-13
Number of pages: 288
Author: Andrew Nathanson
Publisher: Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.

Download and read online Surf Survival in PDF and EPUB Whether you’re a novice or an expert, Surf Survival is the handbook every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. With a slick waterproof cover and a handy travel-size format, Surf Survival explains everything from what to do about a jellyfish sting to what to eat for maximum energy out on the water. Also included are lists of common surfing hazards by region and wave science warm-ups, as well as detailed checklists of what to have on hand in case of an emergency. Be prepared for anything, whether you’re surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia. Written and compiled by three expert surfers and sports medicine doctors, this full-color guide is a handy must-have reference tool for every surfer.


Soul Surfer

Filename: soul-surfer.pdf
ISBN: 9780743499224
Release Date: 2004
Number of pages: 213
Author: Bethany Hamilton
Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Download and read online Soul Surfer in PDF and EPUB Bethany Hamilton, a teenage surfer lost her arm in a shark attack off the coast of Kauai, Hawaii. Not even the loss of her arm keeps her from returning to surfing, the sport she loves.


The History of Surfing

Filename: the-history-of-surfing.pdf
ISBN: 9781452100944
Release Date: 2011-04-29
Number of pages:
Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Chronicle Books

Download and read online The History of Surfing in PDF and EPUB Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.


Surf Mama

Filename: surf-mama.pdf
ISBN: 9781783720606
Release Date: 2014-06-02
Number of pages: 320
Author: Wilma Johnson
Publisher: Summersdale Publishers LTD - ROW

Download and read online Surf Mama in PDF and EPUB Wilma Johnson was living on the west coast of Ireland with her family, balancing the challenges of being an artist, wife and mother, until, in her forties, she was gripped by a deep desire to seize the day, and moved to Biarritz to become a surfer. The plan hits troubled waters as she arrives in France with her marriage on the rocks and three children who speak no French. Her first attempts at surfing are disastrous; resulting in bruises, broken bones and a damaged ego, but when she experiences the euphoric feeling of catching her first wave and sets up the Mamas Surf Club, it’s all worth it.


Bunker Spreckels

Filename: bunker-spreckels.pdf
ISBN: 3822853380
Release Date: 2007-01-01
Number of pages: 215
Author: C. R. Stecyk
Publisher: Taschen America Llc

Download and read online Bunker Spreckels in PDF and EPUB The Player: The wild, brief life of a surfing legend and international playboy The tale of Bunker Spreckels (1949–1977) reads like a pitch for a movie to rival Boogie Nights: the stepson of Clark Gable is a privileged Los Angeles party boy who is heir to a multimillion–dollar fortune; passionate about surfing, martial arts, guns, and women, he lives the life of a debauched international jet-setter before succumbing to his excesses at the tender age of 27. Born Adolph B. Spreckels III, heir to the Spreckels Sugar fortune, Bunker became a famous surfer as a teenager, but after his inheritance came along, he began to slip into a life of pomp and excess where surfing took a back–seat to drugs, sex, and wild road trips. So remarkable was his lifestyle that he created an alter ego who invited photographers and documentarists to trail him, piecing together a tell-all epic of his own rise to fame and fortune. Before the project, known as “The Player,” could be completed, Spreckels suddenly died of “natural causes.” Thirty years later, photographer Art Brewer and writer/photojournalist C. R. Stecyk III have come together to make this book, which traces the meteoric rise and dramatic fall of Bunker Spreckels. Widely considered one of the world’s most gifted surfing photographers, Brewer was a close friend of Spreckels’s and his personal photographer throughout the last decade of his life, traveling with him from Hawaii to Los Angeles to South Africa. His images of Spreckels both on the waves and on land chronicle Spreckels’s metamorphosis from hippie surfer to international playboy, while Stecyk’s extensive taped interview with Spreckels, completed just three months before his death, provides a rare first-person perspective on all of the decadent craziness that was his life.